Itinerary: A Perfect Long Weekend in Mexico City
What to do + what to eat in Mexico City, by Dulci Edge of The Far & Near.
Mexico City had been on my list for years. Living in New York City, friends would jet off for a long weekend and come back with epic tales of dirt cheap street tacos, underground mezcal bars and design savvy boutique hotels. But living in an urban environment often means I don’t travel to big cities for pleasure. After years and years of visiting Mexico, and skipping the city entirely, finally, it was my turn. This trip was long overdue, and even better than I could have imagined…
Day 1:
We land and check into the Hotel Condesa DF, a boutique design hotel in the charming Condesa neighborhood. It’s situated on the lovely Parque Espana and boasts a rooftop bar overlooking the city. We’re hungry, so we book it to Contramar for lunch. Reservations are hard to come by, so we join the queue of people waiting. Once they open at noon, we’re seated promptly at a table outside overlooking the paseo; perfect for people watching. By 12:15pm, they’re full and turning people away. Service is wildly efficient, at times brisk, but somehow warm. We feast on trout tostadas with frizzled leeks, tuna “carnitas” and palomas.
After lunch, we wander the streets of Roma Norte, a chic neighborhood that’s oddly Parisian at times with ornate, carved wooden doors and wide, leafy streets. We’ve somehow worked up an appetite and it’s time for coffee and pastries at Panaderia Rosetta. Then, because it’s vacation, and we’re feeling indulgent, we walk to Mercado Roma, a spiffed up food hall with an outdoor beer garden for steins of micro brews from Monterrey. The walk home is pleasant and after dinner, we pop into Casa Franca, a cozy jazz club for a nightcap. The decor is Brooklyn, but the music is Left Bank, 1920’s.
Day 2:
After breakfast, we check into the Four Seasons Hotel. My trick for covering a lot of ground in a short amount of time? Switch hotels —it forces you to explore a new area you might otherwise skip. The hotel is located just on the edge of Bosque de Chapultepec, a massive 1,700 acre park with outdoor sculptures, grassy picnic areas and a zoo. We make our way through the park and to the Anthropology Museum, an imposing indoor/outdoor structure dedicated to ancient Mexican artifacts.
Nearby, Casa Estudio Luis Barragan, the former home and studio of the famed architect is open for tours, reservations required. Although you won’t need a reservation to visit Churreria El Moro… just your appetite. These buzzy cafes have been around since 1935, churning out delicious, piping hot churros and mugs of thick chocolate for dipping.
Day 3:
We’re heading outside the main confines of Mexico City to Coyocan, a pretty, residential neighborhood where Frida Kahlo famously resided. To visit her studio and home, Casa Azul, you’ll need to queue up early, (or order advance tickets online). Just a few blocks away, her husband Diego Rivera’s studio is also open to the public. The Coyocan Market is a traditional Mexican bazaar selling everything from spices to sandals. Walking through it is an experience for the senses and offers some excellent people watching. For lunch, walk over to Jardin Centenario, the main plaza of Coyocan. Los Danzantes is located right on the square and offers traditional Mexican food with a twist. Ask for a seat on the patio and watch the world go by.
It’s our last night and we’re feeling confident. Because our trip was somewhat last-minute, we didn’t line up the requisite dinner reservations, but we’ve narrowed our focus to two spots — the much lauded Pujol, and Quintonil, currently no. 22 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Both are booked, but Quintonil has room for us around 9pm. We may not be able to enjoy the taco omakase menu at Pujol, but we’re invited to enjoy drinks and a fantastic cheese plate in their gorgeous outdoor garden, empty except for us. We finish up at Pujol and head back to Quintonil where our table is waiting. The menu is exciting and adventurous (think insects and corn fungus), and I know we are in for an unforgettable meal.
It’s only been 72 hours, but I think I’m in love and I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to find it. Mexico City is so many things, and one trip just isn’t enough. We finish our last bites of dessert, flag the waiter for the check and vow to come back. Soon.
Good to know:
Uber has made getting around CDMX a breeze; rides are plentiful and cheap, averaging about $4.00. Public transportation is available, but it’s much safer to take an official CDMX taxi (hot pink and white in color) or an Uber.
While credit cards are accepted at more established restaurants, you’ll want cash for markets and street tacos. US dollars are accepted, but the exchange rate is more favorable if you just have Pesos handy.
Mexico City is relatively safe, but it’s still an urban environment and it’s always best to leave flashy jewelry at home.
Dulci Edge is an art director, writer and photographer living in San Francisco. Follow her travels on Instagram, or at The Far & Near, a space dedicated to living life well-traveled.
